Now with the correct router bit and a new table for the router, I was able to rectify the spoiled strips from the broken bit. I selected three strips and cut the broken coves off them, making them narrower, and then ran them and the equivalent opposite side strips through the new table router. The chips flew and it sounded great. Next, the remaining strips. I had decided that I would not use this strip and cove method on the six light coloured strips right next to the keelson, so they remained in the store.
Cutting the cove with new Router bit and table
Off again with hot glue gun and strips along the outside edge of the bottom. I was getting the hang of this form of construction but decided to only do three strips a day so the glue could dry. I turned my attention to making a two-bladed paddle from the wood stored in my timber pile. That is a separate post here.
An opportunity to sail across Bass Strait with a good friend Andrew on Eye Candy came up, so I jumped at that opportunity. It was a dream crossing which I have documented here. Three days to cross and less than 3 hours to fly home. Back to the kayak.https://malua.blogspot.com/2025/03/was-that-dream-or-even-maybe-short.html
While I only did three or four strips a day, the sides of the bottom of the hull soon closed up and I was progressing towards the centre line. Each strip gets shorter as one moves towards the centre, and at some point the curve or outward bend from the ends is quite extreme, so I would dry fit the strip and leave it in position a few hours before proceeding. The Titebond Regular has a pot time of only about 6 minutes, so one has to work fast to secure each strip in position and against its outside neighbour. Rough surface green masking tape is the answer. One pulls the strip outwards, places a small drop of hot glue on the frame, pulls outwards and down for a minute or so, and secures the strip in position with the green tape. I use small clamps to ensure each strip matches horizontally with its neighbour.
Planking the second side
OK, one side completed. Now draw a perfectly straight centre line from bow to stern and then, if using the traditional method, use a Japanese pull saw to cut the excess of the one side strips. I used my traditional Fein vibrating saw I have had for years and was able to cut a perfect straight line using the new round blade from Fein. Adapt with technology.
Cutting the straight Fein line
Now the inside section of the bottom of the hull. I thought I knew what I was doing at this stage, but the initial strips had to be reglued and adjusted before proceeding. Then as one strip at a time was added, I climbed the sides of the hull until I came to the sharp curvature of the hull where I thought the cove and bead would make it easy. Not so. In fact, I found the use of this material easy to put a strip in place, but the mechanics of the curve meant that the adjacent strip exposed the gap, and with the very thin lip of the cove, it tended to either break away or, when sanded, expose the gap between strips. Not happy – in fact I will not use this method for the rest of the kayak.
Again, the strips get shorter, but this time rather than leave them to overlap the centre line, one has to cut them at both ends to fit into the narrowing space. The method used is: cut one side, plane it to fit the sharp pointed space, remembering the strip does not run parallel to the centre line but bends outwards. Fit the piece, then take the strip and place it in its position. It wants to twist and jump out, so a few clamps and plywood U-locks are used. Now confront the other end and mark the section to be cut off. Saw and plane to fit, then snap the strip into place to see that all is well.
Strips get shorter and shorter
Remove strip. Set on its side and apply a thin bead of glue to the correct edge (Don't ask why I highlight this) and then position the strip in place at one end and fit. Move away from this sharp end and secure strip to its in situ neighbour with green tape and a few small clamps, then snap the other end in place. Return to the strip with masking tape and hot gun glue and secure the new strip tight against its neighbour and down against the frame. Move quickly and diligently back to the first sharp point. Check that each strip is aligned against the neighbour and down on the frame. A heat gun can assist if it has popped up as you moved on. With a wet cloth, wipe up the excess glue.
Sit back and admire your work, knowing that in my case I am only about 1/3 the number of strips secured prior to the last. When will I reach the final whisky strip? I need it!
Ready for the Whisky strip