Setting up the forms and aligning them ready to strip the kayak.

This step is critical to get right because the Myrtle strips are attached to the forms to create the shape of the final product.  If the forms are not aligned or not in the correct place, that will flow through to the final shape of the kayak.

Aligning the forms along part line

I had done the work on setting up the distance between the forms and ensuring that the forms are at right angles to the strongback by making spacers and ensuring they were correctly dimensioned and fitted tightly between each form.  I have documented this.  The forms and components are all well numbered and inscribed, so it was an easy job to push the forms onto the aluminium square tube strongback, slip the spacers between them, and then knock two wedges into the middle section to tighten the whole assembly.

Forms aligned

On this occasion, I had turned the kayak upside down so the bottom hull was uppermost and therefore the end pieces were inverted.  In addition, I attached some small wooden indicators using a hot glue gun at the part line (where one separates the hull from the deck during the build) so the first strip would rest upon them, and I could eye-ball these lines from bow to stern.  This made the alignment easy from bow to stern while sitting in my chair abeam of the kayak.

I checked the forms to see that they butt up against the strips as they touched the whole width of the form.  I had to do some adjustment to refine the angle created by the rotating sander in the previous operation.

The next step is to cover the edges of the forms with high-quality 3M packing tape so the hot glue used to attach the strip to the form sticks but is not permanently glued.  You remove the forms from the finished stripped kayak.  I am using this method rather than staples because I did not like the way staples leave holes in the finished strips for all to see.

The big day arrived, and the first two strips were ready to attach to the forms. Now, I had previously joined an extra 500 mm to the end of my selected strip with Titebond glue to get the final length of 4.2 meters.  As I picked up the long strip, the end fell off because the glue had not adequately set, and I was left with a short strip.

Back to the workbench.  So, I take the two selected pieces of wood, cut a scarf (45-degree cut) on the drop saw at the right angle as per the template. I created a template on the drop saw for the strips to fit into when I need to cut an accurate scarf.  I then move the two pieces to the glue template and place them in it, apply glue.  Now the crunch... Leave to dry for a few hours.

Joining the strips

After that setback, I attached the first strip at the part line using a hot glue gun between strip and form, working from the middle out.  The last station is the strip attached to the inner stem and stern, which requires actual Titebond glue.

That went very well and was easily done to the wooden indicator strips.  Next came the second strip on each side.  Because the side is vertical at this point, there is no requirement to make any adjustment to each strip. But more on that with the next strip.

The second, third and subsequent strips up the side of the kayak starts to curve inwards towards the centre-line along the hull bottom of the kayak, and thus it requires adjustment so it butts up against the strip below without leaving a gap on the outside edge.  Imagine two rectangles, one on top of the other. Then take the top one and lean it over to one side.  There is a gap on the outside while the inside is still touching the strip above.  To address this problem, one has to plane the inside edge of the lower strip to be at the precise angle of the rectangular strip above.

The second strip

Easy, take a block plane and run it along the strip.  Wrong, because firstly, the strip is now attached to the forms, and secondly, the angle varies as it changes from the upright of the bow and stern to the sides and corners of the hull as it turns to form the bottom of the kayak.  So what is the solution? 

Use a "rabbit" plane which was designed to solve this problem.  Knowing the issue when I set out on this journey, I bid and purchased a rabbit plane at an online auction in the USA and received a rusty second-hand Stanley Rabbit Plane No. 79.  I cleaned it up and sharpened both blades.  It turned out to be a gem and just the right tool to take a thin sliver of wood off the top of an attached strip at just the right angle.  What a delight to have the right tool for the job. BUT

Nick Schade of Guillemot Kayaks has designed a special Robo-Bevel based on a miniature shoulder plane made by Veritas.  The plane is ¼" wide, the same as the strips, and it fits into a plywood jig via two strong magnets.  To use it, one runs the plywood jig up against the forms as they curve into the centre-line, and the plane takes a thin wood shaving at the correct angle from the strip below.  It is such a neat solution and ensures that the angle matches the form and the strip above which leaves no gap between strips.  Not wanting to pay the $150 plus shipping, I took the idea and designed a local Australian knock-off of this jig using the Veritas plane.  It works wonders and makes the job of butting the strips an easy job.

Rabbit Plane and 1/4 plane jig

The third strip went on easily, and now I wanted to add a dark highlighted strip at the waterline.  That and the decision to move to a cove and bead stripping routine will come in the next saga.

Three strips in place